Treasures of the Danube - River Cruise
Cruising down the Danube is a bucket list item for many - I’m happy to say that it doesn’t disappoint!
Our tour was early October 2019, when the weather can vary from cold (but not freezing) to warm and sunny.
There’s so much history, culture and beautiful landscapes packed into this journey involving visits to four different countries that it will provide you with memorable experiences of a lifetime. Traveling by river cruise is a very convenient way to see the sites - no traffic, no waves, no checking in and out of hotels, always docking in the heart of cities, plus a boatful of like minded companions to share with and make new friends!
Austria
Vienna
It’s a delight to stroll around the old city center of Austria’s capital with its marvelous Baroque buildings, many cafes, restaurants and shops. When your feet get fired there’s always a horse and carriage ride available to tour around in style. It’s very safe and clean and fall can be a good time to go with cool weather but still some sunshine.
There are many fine museums in the city including - The Belvedere Art museum (a beautiful Baroque building that also houses Klimt’s “The Kiss”), Kunsthistorisches art museum, Leopoldstadt Gallery art museum, The Natural History Museum and many more.
The Spanish Riding School featuring the famous Lipizzaner stallions is located in the city center and you can either catch a show or watch them train most days.
St Stephen’s Cathedral , which started construction in the 12th century, is an impressive landmark site in the city. Climb the south tower to get some magnificent views!
Schoenbrunn Palace (Vienna, Austria)
This World Heritage Site is a must see for any Vienna travel itinerary. During the reign of Empress Maria Theresa, as an imperial summer residence, Schönbrunn Palace became the glittering focus of court life of the Habsburgs. From this time on, it played host to the leading statesmen of Europe. Built on the site of the royal hunting lodge, it grew to it’s magnificent Baroque splendor in the 18th century. It has the look and feel of Versailles , but not quite as large, still boasting its original furnishings. The gardens are spacious and a delight to stroll through on a sunny day. It also includes a maze.
Taking photos is prohibited inside the palace , so see here to check it out at the palace’s website which contains more info as well as touring information - https://www.schoenbrunn.at/en/about-schoenbrunn/the-palace/tour-of-the-palace/
Dürnstein Castle (Austria)
The city of Dürnstein and the ruin of Dürnstein Castle are connected by a wall. The castle was built between 1140-1145 by the family Kuenring (Hadmar I), and in 1645 it was demolished by a blast carried out by the Swedes under General Torstenson.
The castle became famous through the legend of Richard the Lionheart. The legend of Richard the Lionheart says that upon returning from the Crusades, the English King tore up the Austrian flag and refused to share his spoils of war with Leopold V. Consequently, Leopold V held the English King prisoner in the castle from 1192 – 1193.
The royal prisoner was permitted to receive traveling singers (Troubadours) for his entertainment. This is likely where the saga of the singer Blondel comes from. The story says that the King’s faithful minnesinger travelled from castle to castle until he found him in Dürnstein by singing a refrain, which the prisoner sang back. Richard the Lionheart was released after the payment of a ransom of 150,000 silver marks.
The trail that was created around the ruin of Dürnstein will lead you through some of the most beautiful natural and cultural scenic outlook points in the region of the Wachau valley. It’s well worth the hike up to take in the scenery. The village is small and picturesque containing gift stores and some bar/restaurants.
Melk Abbey (Austria)
Melk Abbey is one of the biggest and most beautiful European Baroque ensembles. The Baroque building sits on a rock overlooking the Danube is one of Austria’s most visited sites for art and history.
A visit of the monastery includes the Imperial Staircase, the Imperial Corridor, the abbey museum, the Marble Hall, the balcony, the library and the abbey church as well as the abbey park with its Baroque pavilion and many other accents (May to October), the Northern Bastion with the Wachau Lab and a panoramic terrace, the mineral collection (May to October) and special exhibitions.
The centerpieces of this complex are the church and the library. The library main hall boasts 16,000 volumes and graced with a ceiling fresco by Paul Troger. A spiral staircase leads to another set of 12 library rooms not open to the public but containing more than 100,000 volumes, some of which are extremely valuable. It is easy to understand why the Italian writer Umberto Eco drew inspiration from this site for his novel “The Name of the Rose” in which a monastic library plays a key role.
The interior of the church shines with an abundance of gold leaf and displays the work of renowned. The beauty of the church is breathtaking, as is the view from the semi-circular exterior terrace looking out over the Wachau Valley (note that photography isn’t allowed in the abbey interiors).
The Benedictine monks have lived and worked there since 1089 according to St Benedict’s rules “Ora et Laboratory’s et Lege” - Pray, Work and learn. For the Benedictine’s, the whole human being is challenged to contribute everything possible to the community which is searching God. Body, soul and spirit merge to have a meaning of life which isn’t limited to this world, but leaves room for everything that goes beyond it. Because of this Saint Benedict tells his monks to glorify God in all things, not only through their prayer, but also through their work and their daily willingness to learn. “Never stop beginning”: this is the ultimate goal to come clean with oneself, with others and with God and to lead a fulfilled life.
Salzburg (Austria)
This historic city also boasts a breathtaking scenic background of mountains and green countryside. Major sites to experience are Mirabell Baroque Gardens, Hellbrunn Palace, UNESCO World Heritage Old Town and the Hohensalzburg Fortress which dominates the city from the hilltop.
The Old Town is a great place to shop and find a spot to eat or drink. Take the Makartsteg foot bridge to enter the town and see it festooned with thousands of love padlocks. The cathedral , dedicated to St Rupert and St Vergilius, is located here as well as Mozart’s birthplace. Salzburg is famous for its locally mined salt which you can buy in many varieties for cooking or bathing.
The Fortress , which is easily reached using the funicular railway, offers spectacular views. Construction began in the 11th century and its one of the largest medieval castles in Europe containing a museum and princely chambers.
Germany
Munich
This required a couple of hours coach ride to get to since Munich is not situated on the Danube. It was worth the side trip to experience its world famous Oktoberfest!
Before entering the festival , we took in a quick walking tour of downtown old Munich taking in the opera house, Marienplatz and the old Hofbräuhaus.
Oktoberfest is a VERY popular festival - so skip it if you don’t like being jostled in crowd - especially later in the evening when things get even more boisterous…
The most surprising thing I learned at this beer festival was that you just can’t walk to a bar and buy a beer! You need to be seated and order via table service - so HIGHLY recommend table reservations at one of the large beer halls if you want to partake, else you leave it to chance to find a spot. This isn’t too hard for the outdoor tables…till it rains, but near impossible indoors - and we were there in the afternoon before the crowds peak. Also, once you have a beer, you can’t stroll around with it either…
Passau (Germany)
Passau is built on the ancient Roman border town (named Batavis) and forts is noted for its gothic and baroque architecture. There is a small but interesting museum dedicated to the town’s Roman past. I found the Roman road network map (Printed on the floor) of the entire Empire particularly interesting.
The town is situated at the confluence of three rivers - the Danube, the Inn and the Ilz. It is dominated by the Veste Oberhaus and the Veste Niederhaus, both parts of the former fortress of the Bishop, on the mountain crest between the Danube and the Ilz.
It’s a good spot for site seeing by bike along the riverbanks and is on the designated heritage route - the Route of Emperors and Kings.
Slovakia
Bratislava
Bratislava, the capital of Slovakia, is set along the Danube River by the border with Austria and Hungary. Small by European standards (population under 450,000), it is still the largest city in Slovakia. It’s surrounded by vineyards and the Little Carpathian mountains, crisscrossed with forested hiking and cycling trails. The pedestrian-only, 18th-century old town is known for its lively streets withe vending stalls, bars, interesting shops and cafes.
Perched atop a hill, the reconstructed Bratislava Castle overlooks old town and the Danube.
The “UFO” restaurant & bar atop the suspension bridge also affords excellent views along with good food and cocktails.
Hungary
Budapest
Budapest is the capital and largest of Hungary. The hilly district on one side of the Danube is named and Budapest, and the flat more populous side is named Pest. Traces of settlements have been found dating all the way back to Stone Age times, so there is a lot of history to discover here. There’s a wealth of good information available at Budapest.com .
The city was chosen as the Best European Destination of 2019 in a major poll conducted by European Best DestinationsIt also topped the Best European Destinations 2020 list by Big7Media. The city has something for everyone - shopping, bars & restaurants, numerous thermal spas, and the metro and tram systems help you get around.
The Great Market Hall (looks a bid like a Victorian railway station from outside) is an excellent venue for sampling and purchasing Hungarian foods and stocking up on those souvenirs.
Budapest boasts a splendid parliament building, comparable to Westminster UK, that can be toured.
The Castle District area on the hill (Buda side) has the 13th-century Matthias Church at Trinity Square.
The streets nearby are very pleasant to walk around and are great for shopping and cafes. Also by the church, the turrets of the Fishermen’s Bastion is the best place to take in impressive panoramas of the city.
To experience a little more of Hungary’s countryside we travelled out of the city to take in a word class show of equestrian skill at the Lázár Equestrian Park. In a very well maintained and manicured setting you experience a demonstration of a variety of horsemanship skills followed by local wine or brandy accompanied by some popular Hungarian fare - the chimney cakes being my favorite!
The central area of the city along the Danube River is classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and has several notable monuments, including the Hungarian Parliament, Buda Castle, Fisherman's Bastion, Gresham Palace, Széchenyi Chain Bridge, Matthias Church and the Liberty Statue. A great way to see this is to cruise along the Danube at night which provides a truly romantic experience!
